Goggles
Browse used BMX goggles for sale from riders across the UK. Goggles seal to the face inside the eyeport of a full-face helmet and hold the lens clear of your eyelashes, which sunglasses cannot manage on a dirt track or a wet gate. Most use a wide elasticated strap with a silicone grip bead, a replaceable lens and triple-layer face foam, and race models add posts for tear-offs.
Will any goggles fit a full-face helmet?
No, and this is the thing to settle before buying. Frames vary in width and in how curved the top edge is, so a wide frame in a narrow eyeport either will not seat or presses on the bridge of your nose all session. Buy the helmet first, then measure the eyeport or take the lid with you, and look for the strap to lie flat across the back of the shell rather than riding up.
Which lens tint should you choose?
Clear for dusk, indoor tracks and rain, since a dark lens on a shadowed indoor berm is genuinely dangerous. A light amber, rose or yellow lens lifts contrast in the flat grey light most UK race days deliver, and smoke or mirrored lenses are for actual sun. A frame that comes with a spare lens, or one from a mainstream line — replacement lenses are made for Oakley, 100%, Scott and Fox frames — is worth more than whichever tint it ships with.
What should you check on used goggles?
Face foam and the inside of the lens. The foam compresses and the outer fleece mats down; once it stops sealing you get wind and dust straight into the corner of your eye, and re-foaming is a rebuild rather than a wipe-down. Scratches on the inside of the lens come from wiping mud off with a glove and take the anti-fog coating with them, so hold the lens up at an angle to the light. Then stretch the strap — if the silicone bead has gone shiny and smooth, the goggles will creep up your helmet on every lap.
Are used goggles worth buying?
Often, because the parts that cost money — frame, outriggers, strap — barely wear, and a scratched lens on a mainstream model is a cheap replacement you can factor into the offer. Walk away from hardened or splitting foam, and from unbranded frames that no lens is made for. The value tends to sit in pairs bundled with a bike or with a bag of race kit.
Do you need tear-offs?
Only for racing in the wet. Tear-offs are thin clear films stacked on posts at the sides of the lens and pulled away one at a time when the front one is blinding you with mud; half a dozen covers a race day. Park and street riders have no use for them, and indoors you may not need goggles at all beyond keeping dust out, where gloves and pads earn their place first.